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     <dc:title xml:lang="fr">Modèles de type dispersion complète en océanographie côtière</dc:title>
     <dcterms:alternative xml:lang="en">Full dispersion models in coastal oceanography</dcterms:alternative>
     <dc:subject xml:lang="fr">Équations dispersives non linéaires</dc:subject><dc:subject xml:lang="fr">Océanographie</dc:subject><dc:subject xml:lang="fr">Tsunamis</dc:subject>
     <dc:subject xml:lang="en">Non-linear dispersive partial differiential equations</dc:subject><dc:subject xml:lang="en">Oceanography</dc:subject><dc:subject xml:lang="en">Tsunamis</dc:subject>
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						<tef:elementdEntree autoriteSource="Sudoc" autoriteExterne="113932065">Équations dispersives non linéaires</tef:elementdEntree>
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						<tef:elementdEntree autoriteSource="Sudoc" autoriteExterne="027243915">Océanographie</tef:elementdEntree>
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						<tef:elementdEntree autoriteSource="Sudoc" autoriteExterne="027839931">Dispersion (mathématiques)</tef:elementdEntree>
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     <dcterms:abstract xml:lang="fr">Cette thèse porte sur la justification rigoureuse de modèles de type dispersion complète en océanographie côtière. Le premier modèle de ce type est celui de G. Whitham, introduit en 1967 afin d'étudier les vagues de Stokes d'amplitude maximale et le phénomène de vagues surplombantes. Il consiste en une modification des équations de Korteweg-de Vries ayant la même relation de dispersion que celle des équations des vagues. Par la suite, de nombreux modèles de type dispersion complète, unidirectionnels comme bidirectionnels, ont été introduits dans la littérature. Dans une première partie, nous utilisons des techniques classiques d'approximations de solutions d'équations elliptiques afin de dériver des modèles de Whitham-Boussinesq et de Whitham-Green-Naghdi. Ensuite, nous justifions complètement une classe de modèles de Whitham-Boussinesq présentant une structure d'équations quasi-linéaires non-locales. Dans une partie suivante, nous justifions le modèle de Whitham en utilisant deux méthodes différentes. L'une est adaptée à la propagation de vagues unidirectionnelles, et utilise le calcul pseudo-différentiel. L'autre est adaptée à la propagation de vagues bidirectionnelles, et est basée sur une généralisation de l'algorithme de la forme normale de Birkhoff. Dans la dernière partie, nous étudions numériquement la validité des modèles de Boussinesq et de Saint-Venant pour la propagation de tsunamis générés par des glissements de terrain.</dcterms:abstract>
     <dcterms:abstract xml:lang="en">This thesis is on the rigorous justification of full dispersion models in coastal oceanography. The first full dispersion model was introduced by G. Whitham in 1967 to study the Stokes waves of maximal amplitude and the wavebreaking phenomenon. It is a full dispersion modification of the Korteweg-de Vries equations which have the same dispersion relation as the general water-waves model. Afterwards, numerous unidirectional and bidirectional full dispersion models were introduced in the litterature. In the first part of the thesis, we use classical techniques on free surface elliptic equations to derive rigorously some Whitham-Boussinesq and Whitham-Green-Naghdi models. In the second part, we justify rigorously a class of non-local quasi-linear Whitham-Boussinesq systems. In the next part, we justify rigorously Whitham's model using two different methods. One is adapted to the propagation of unidirectional waves and use pseudo-differential calculus. The other is adapted to the propagation of bidirectionnal waves. It is based on a generalisation of Birkhoff's normal form algorithm. In the last part, we study numerically the validity of the Saint-Venant and Boussinesq models for the propagation of tsunamis generated by landslides.</dcterms:abstract>
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